Your Most Asked Shoe Care Questions — Answered by Preston

Every week — whether through YouTube comments, emails, workshop conversations, or casual messages — I hear from many of you who are passionate about caring for your shoes, bags, and leather goods. Some questions are simple, others wonderfully technical, but all of them come from a place of appreciation for craftsmanship.

Today, I want to answer a selection of the questions I receive most often — starting with a few of the shorter ones that come up almost every day, then moving into the more in-depth topics that can truly elevate your care routine.

Common Quick Questions

“How often should I polish my shoes?”

If you wear them regularly, a light maintenance routine every 5–8 wears is usually enough. Brush after each wear, apply cream about once a month, and add wax when you want a higher shine.

“Do shoe trees really make a difference?”

Absolutely. Cedar shoe trees are one of the most important tools you can own. They help prevent deep creasing, absorb moisture, and preserve the shape of your shoes. Insert them as soon as you take your shoes off.

“Can I mix brands of polish and cream?”

You can, but you won’t get the same consistency of results as you will from a system designed to work together. The Saphir Médaille d’Or range is formulated so that creams, waxes, and conditioners layer beautifully, giving you clarity and depth of finish.

Q&A With Preston

✨ Q: “How do I care for Louis Vuitton Vachetta leather without darkening it?”

Vachetta leather is naturally pale, absorbent, and very sensitive — which is a big part of its charm. To keep it from darkening:

• Always use a clean, unused cloth
• Apply micro amounts of product
• Condition only with Saphir Médaille d’Or Nappa Cream (Neutral) — it’s the sole formula gentle enough not to darken Vachetta
• Completely avoid heavy creams or oils
• Test everything on a hidden spot first

Vachetta will still develop a patina over time — but with the right care, it will age evenly and gracefully.

✨ Q: “How can I prevent deep creasing on my Chelseas from Edward Green?”

Chelsea boots crease as part of their character, but deep, harsh creases can absolutely be minimized with a few good habits:

• Insert cedar shoe trees right after each wear
• Use Saphir Renovateur sparingly to maintain a smooth, conditioned surface
• Make sure the fit is correct — Chelseas need a secure instep
• Rotate your pairs to give each one time to rest

Fine calfskin ages beautifully when it’s supported properly.

✨ Q: “How do I fix edge scuffs without having to dye the whole welt?”

Not long ago, I would have recommended a full edge re-dye — a slow, careful process that demanded time and experience.

Now? The new Saphir Edge & Heel Restorer Pen makes precise repairs incredibly simple:

• Shake the pen
• Apply a thin pass across the scuff
• Allow it to dry

It restores dull or worn edges in one smooth stroke — clean, controlled, and effortless.

✨ Q: “Can I mirror-shine my museum calf shoes without ruining the marbled effect?”

Museum calf may look intricate, but it responds very well to a careful, deliberate shine.

• Choose a wax shade that matches the lightest tone on the shoe
• Apply Mirror Gloss only on the toe and heel
• Keep layers thin
• Brush lightly between coats

The goal is to highlight the marbling, not cover it.

✨ Q: “What’s the safest way to clean luxury handbags (Hermès, LV, Celine) without damaging the leather?”

Luxury handbags require an extremely controlled approach. Harsh cleaners or multi-purpose sprays can very quickly turn into a disaster. Instead, here is what I recommend for your cherished handbags:

• A soft, perfectly clean cloth with no previous product residue. This is key — you don’t want unwanted stains or changes in texture caused by old wax or color.

Saphir Médaille d’Or Coated Fabric Lotion

• Formulated for coated canvas and printed fabrics
• Helps prevent cracks and maintains structure

Saphir Médaille d’Or Leather Lotion

• Designed for smooth calfskin leathers
• Restores softness and keeps the surface balanced

Saphir Médaille d’Or Nappa Cream

• Ideal for delicate, naturally tanned leathers and handles
• Maintains suppleness and helps prevent dryness

And always: test any product on a hidden spot first, especially with luxury pieces.

More Questions From the Bench

✨ Q: “Is there a safe way to clean suede without flattening the nap?”

Suede looks delicate, but with the right tools, it is very manageable:

• Start with a suede brush in short, and very gentle strokes to dust off residue.
• For stains, use a dedicated cleaner such as Saphir Omni’Nettoyant for suede and nubuck
• Let the shoe dry naturally, away from heat
• Finish by lifting the nap with a crepe brush

The key is patience — clean gradually, never aggressively.

✨ Q: “Can I use Renovateur on exotic skins like alligator or ostrich?”

For exotic leathers, I highly recommend using Saphir Reptan instead of Renovateur. Reptan is specifically formulated for reptile and exotic skins.

• Use Reptan to keep alligator, lizard, or similar leathers flexible and balanced
• Avoid heavy creams not designed for exotics, as they can alter the surface texture

Exotic skins deserve a product tailored to their unique structure.

✨ Q: “How do I revive leather that looks dry but still smooth?”

When leather looks dry but not yet cracked, a gentle, two-step approach works best:

• Begin with a light cleanse using a mild product such as Saphir Leather Cleanser to remove surface buildup without stripping the leather.
• Follow with a small amount of Saphir Renovateur or Nappa Cream (depending on the leather type) to restore balance and softness.

Avoid jumping straight to heavy conditioners. Leather responds best to gradual, measured care.

A Note From Me

I’m fortunate to receive so many great questions from this community, and I truly enjoy answering them. Your curiosity is what keeps this craft alive.

If you ever have a more technical concern or something you’re struggling with, feel free to email me anytime — there’s a good chance your question may inspire a future post.

Thank you for taking the time to read, to ask, and to care for your shoes and leather goods with intention. It’s always a pleasure to share this journey with you.

Warm regards,
Preston Soto

The Elegant Oxford
Excellence in Every Step